As we have stated before we are not a kennel or a puppy mill. We occasionally have a litter and cannot promise when we will have another litter.
Our price reflects the quality of the breeding, the commitment we have to the breed in terms of time and financial investment, our continual updates of health clearances, and improvement of the breed.
What you can expect with your puppy
- Individual stimulation from birth
- Dew claws removed
- Paper trained and the beginnings of house / crate training
- Individual Veterinarian Examination
- Bill of Sale
- AKC Registration
Price and deposit
We do require a $200 non-refundable deposit.
We accept cash, cashier's check, and money orders. If you pay by cashier's check or money order we do require that you send them in advance of picking up your puppy. We will wait until your check or money order clears before you can take your puppy home. We used to take personal checks but do not anymore due to the ability of the buyer canceling the check after they have picked up their puppy. We are sorry for the inconvenience, but one person ruined it for everyone.
We DO NOT ship puppies, however, depending on your location we may be willing to meet you or deliver the puppy.
We believe that providing the highest quality nutrition is extremely important in the growth and development of our puppies, and we feed and recommend Royal Canin Puppy, Royal Canin Golden Retriever, and Purina Pro Plan Performance and Purina Pro Plan Sensitive Skin and Stomach.
You are able to purchase these foods at Petsmart, Petco, Tractor Supply. www.wag.com, or www.dog.com. You may even be able to get them at your local vet or farm store.
We use Intervet Progard for Distemper/Parvo. We prefer the Intervet vaccine because it is a high titer vaccine which actually immunizes through the maternal antibodies which provides a higher level of protection from the viruses to the puppy at an earlier age. The manufacturer recommends 3 doses of the vaccine at 3-4 week intervals (as opposed to 4-5 doses from some other brands). We vaccinate our puppies at 6, 9, and 12 weeks of age.
We also worm our puppies at 6, 9, and 12 weeks. We use panacur. Puppies as well as adults should be wormed reguarly. We aslo recommend that you use Heartgard for the life of your dogs. Please follow the manufactors or your veterinarians recommended dosing.
We reserve the right to not sell a puppy or do business with anyone. Our goal is to find the best possible home for our puppies. If we see during your visit with the puppies you will not be a good fit, we have the right to refuse a sale. Our puppies are our family. Owning a puppy is a privilege not a right. It is a life time commitment. We expect these puppies to be going to their forever homes. While puppies are cute, they all to soon become adult dogs and require a lot of care. Golden Retriever's shed. So, if you do not expect or want to clean up dog hair off your clothes, car seat, etcetera maybe a Golden puppy isn't for you. They are a Sporting breed so they are active and require daily exercise. If you have any questions about the breed please ask, we have a lot of knowledge about Goldens. We also want to encourage you to visit the Golden Retriever Club of America's website located in our links page.
WHAT IS A ‘BREEDER’?
A ‘Breeder’ is a person for whom it is more important to perform a specific breeding of one special ‘right’ dog to a specific bitch, rather than a person who will breed any male of the same breed to their bitch in order to produce puppies. A Breeder doesn’t breed at a specific time of year for better puppy sales. A Breeder breeds for him or her self, because they are breeding to an ideal and not the "market". A Breeder may hold onto the puppies for longer than 8 weeks so that they are certain they have made the right ‘pick’ of which puppy to keep or to sell as a show dog, and by definition as a breeding animal.
A Breeder makes you justify just why you think you deserve a puppy. On the other hand, a non-breeder, in the case of the worst puppy mills, breeds any dog which looks like it may belong to a certain breed to whatever specimen of the same breed they can pick up. A non- breeder doesn’t choose the ‘best’ male for a given female. A non-breeder ‘lets nature take its course’ rather than doing everything within their power to ensure that the mother and the father, and eventually the puppies, are healthy, so that the breeding will be successful, so that it won’t seriously affect the health of the mother, and so that the puppies will be robust and healthy. A Breeder will perform all necessary tests to ensure that the mother and father of a litter are genetically healthy, and free of inheritable diseases to the best of their ability to check.
A Breeder will only register puppies with the correct pedigree. A puppy mill will use any set of ‘papers’ they can get their hands on. Papers which may not actually be the true pedigrees of the sire and dam. A Breeder will stay awake and with the litter for as many 24-hour days as are necessary to insure that no puppy is lost to ‘fading puppy syndrome’, or is squashed or misplaced by the new mother. A non-breeder will ‘let nature take its course’ - again.
A Breeder will handle every puppy several times every day, and help supplement the puppies feeding if necessary to save excessive drain on the dam. A Breeder will chart daily weights on the puppies, and identify each puppy in some way, so that they can keep track of each puppy’s rate of gain, so a puppy, which is falling behind the others, can be supplemented.
A Breeder will give the expectant mother Breyers Ice Cream, or pickles and peanut butter, if they are requested, and will sleep with her on their pillow and get up in the middle of the night to let her out to go potty and to reassure her she is special. A Breeder will stay home from work for as many days as necessary, in order to whelp the litter, help the bitch, and get the puppies off to a good start. A Breeder will supply the mother with a whelping box which keeps the mother and the puppies comfortable, and gives them a feeling of protection and safety. If the bitch chooses, however, she is allowed to begin the whelping process on the Breeder’s own bed, and to move to the whelping box once anxiety cools and the bitch is ready to keep at her job in another location. A puppy mill simply ‘harvests’ the puppies from wire bottomed cages like rabbit hutches when they appear to be about the age of consent for the airlines.
A Breeder will skillfully interview all applicants for adoption, and will provide the new puppy owners with a healthy, well adjusted, well vaccinated and wormed puppy. I know I could go on about this for a couple more pages, but the impression I want to give, is that breeding a litter and whelping and raising and placing puppies entails tremendous sustained effort, education, money and a good knowledge of applied genetics. It is anything but a casual undertaking. A breeding undertaken without this kind of effort may produce healthy, sound puppies, or it may not. One has no way of predicting, since the deck wasn’t ‘loaded’’ as good Breeders try to arrange it.
After selling the puppy, a good Breeder will follow up with all needed assistance to the new owner. A Breeder will be prepared to take a puppy or adult dog back into their own home if needed - for whatever reason. This means that a good Breeder must be able to provide for an extra dog or two at a moments notice, and inconvenience isn’t an admissible excuse. A good Breeder considers him or herself the "parent" of a puppy from birth to grave. The responsibility for bringing new puppies into the world includes making certain, to the extent possible, that these puppies will go on to have happy lives, and never become homeless. All contracts for puppy sales must include that any transfer should occur through the breeder, or be approved by the breeder.
The bumper sticker proclaims that "A Puppy is for Life", and that’s true, for both the buyer and the breeder. While ‘back yard breeders’ may not be guilty of the sins of puppy mills, neither are they, by definition, cognizant of the procedures and efforts necessary to earn the title ‘Breeder’.